I would say play with coloring after the fact. Now for color, that is a bit more tricky, you can do hue-saturation correction and hope for the best, try tricks like making multiple layer duplicates and having them multiply or soft light the lower layers to better exaggerate the colors, but I find trying to color paper does not work due to it naturally wanting to be white, which tends to blow out the image. I find that the level curve (I think in the new version 2.10.12 it is called the color curve tool or just curves) is one of the most important steps to get the right look and feel of a pencil drawing. it can do way more than just brightness and contrast correction. The main thing with gimp is to continue to edit and make improvements to your artwork.
it is #2 on the chart, but it is free, and if you are more familiar with photoshop but don't have it, there is a gimpshop version that recreates the photoshop feel and experience to make it more friendly to previous photoshop users. It is likely that when you currently work on things, what your screen shows you does not accurately reflect what the computer thinks the images looks like, so if you try to fix the image to look white on a slightly yellow screen, your image would actually be a bit blue, and noticeable on other screens that are not as yellow as yours.ģ Use Gimp. , but you'll see you will not be able to make each test perfect. You can see how good or bad your monitor is by trying to calibrate it manually using this
#Outer stoke gimpshop Pc#
If you need I can help you with picking a monitor for your budget, I use to help design custom pc builds all the time a few years back. Colors are a bit yellow, tends to bake images look brighter or darker, and tends not to evenly represent brightness as colors will bleach out at the higher spectrum. A cheap $150 usd TN type panel is absolute garbage, but what most people have (same with laptops). If you are taking work from real life to your screen, You Must Get A Color Accurate Monitor. The computer will she shadows and smudges and deliberate details and are not hard to remove without directly painting said effects out.Ģ get a better monitor. A Fluorescent in the 4200 to 5400-kelvin range should do a pretty good job of being white, and the large (longe) area of the light means that the light will be very diffused, so that the image will be evenly lit despite things that could produce shadows, like that of the camera (which is also why the light should be to the side). If you do not have a scanner, I recommend that when you take a picture, have the light come from the side, try to have something that is physically large or long, like, having the paper on a clipboard, and hold it up near a fluorescent kitchen lamp. The issue is that smudges will be exaggerated. I usually find that the best results is to lower the brightness and then increase the contrast, to try to make the paper turn pure white, the pensile dark but still detailed. Instead, I just use regular old ms Paint, which is able to scan from the printer. I do not use my printer's scanning program. I very strongly recommend playing with the settings, for brightness and contrast. 1 use a scanner, usually at 300 to 600 dpi if you want high to very high detail accuracy (mostly 600 if you are going to do some photo editing).
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